1995 was a major year for things we're still influenced by. Windows 95 was launched. The first PlayStation was released. And Tom Ford, then 34 and creative director of Gucci, sent models down the autumn/winter 1996 runway in endless, midnight-coloured velvet - all slicked hair, golden eyeshadow and cinched-in waists. At the time, Vogue dubbed the show the "fashion equivalent of a one-night stand at Studio 54" (complimentary). Sales for Gucci very quickly soared by 90 per cent.
And so, the latter end of the '90s became defined by velvet trousers. See also: Jean Paul Gaultier's autumn/winter 1995 "cyber" collection, or the draped velvet suiting on Giorgio Armani's autumn/winter 1998 runway. Everyone from Gwyneth Paltrow (famously) and Sarah Jessica Parker were on board, and this strange fabric, made from a variety of fibres, gave red carpets and parties a winking, almost gothic-leaning feel. Even now, throw on a bit of velvet, and it screams '90s.
Velvet trousers (and a lot of velvet bodycon, actually) found their way back into hearts, minds and wardrobes in the 2010s - around the same time that everyone got weirdly into chokers and creepers - before promptly disappearing again. But now, lo and behold, velvet trousers are inching their way back again. From the baggy velvet pants for Celine's spring/summer 2026 collection, to a return to velvet suiting for both Giorgio Armani and Dior, plus all manner of high-waisted velvet trousers for Gucci's Resort 2026 collection, it's like it never left!
It shouldn't really come as a surprise that velvet trousers - divisive, yes, but also a party season classic - appear to be cropping up everywhere from the catwalks to London's many cocktail bars as of late. The '90s have a sort of vice-like grip on us, ebbing and flowing every few years or so, but never truly leaving (as the world turns to dust and AI takes over our jobs, there will still be talk of a '90s comeback). Add a sprinkle of 2010s, Tumblr-ish nostalgia (I know) and a return to OTT party dressing, plus a move towards second-hand purchases, and the resurgence of velvet trousers makes perfect sense.
When it comes to how to style this party favourite, I'd suggest looking to the greats. Think: less "works at Urban Outfitters in 2016 and wears winged eyeliner" and more Tom Ford for Gucci, so silk shirts and low-slung velvet pants, full velvet suiting and, yes, the "fashion equivalent of a one-night stand at Studio 54".
This story first appeared on Vogue.co.uk
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