Basil Hayden: One of the few recommended 80-proof whiskeys James B. Beam Distilling Co.

Ask a whisk(e)y writer about their favorite 80-proof expression, and you'll inevitably get a lot of blank stares and the above response. This is usually followed by a question ("Why?") and a mumble that serves more as a question than an answer ("Uh, Basil Hayden?").

I'd make fun of my spirits-writing peers, but I initially didn't have a better answer. Obviously, I enjoy plenty of spirits at 40% ABV or 80 proof, but whiskey -- and particularly American whiskey -- isn't usually one of them. Many liquor brands set their proofs at 80 simply because it's the minimum required by law, and there are tax consequences as you go above that number. That proof also works if you want a sessionable drink, but it's also a proof where whiskey tends to lose a lot of flavor and gets lost in cocktails.

One thing affecting those 80-proof releases is chill-filtering, a sub-freezing process that strips fatty acids, proteins and esters from your whiskey. That process makes the liquid prettier to look at (there's no "haze"), but it does affect flavor. "Chill filtration leaves that luscious creaminess in the palate and makes the flavor linger longer," whisky legend Dr. Bill Lumsden tells me at a tasting of SirDavis, an American whiskey that is not 80 proof.

SirDavis Blender and Head of Advocacy Cameron George took the explanation further. "Whiskies bottled below 45.7% ABV are usually chill-filtered," he says. "That's usually the threshold where long-chain lipid fatty acids are no longer comfortable in a water and alcohol solution."

So these 80-proof whiskeys/whiskies are potentially losing flavor and mouthfeel. But that's just one aspect of a large, multi-component process that goes into making a good spirit. "Proof is just one of the many tools a distiller uses to create the flavor of a whiskey," says drinks journalist Noah Rothbaum, author of The Whiskey Bible. "The alcohol level shouldn't be an arbitrary decision but should be set in tandem with the overall character of the spirit and how it's intended to be drunk. Factors like the mash bill, the type of still used and the barrel entry proof will truly determine the optimal ABV."

"There's nothing inherently wrong with 80-proof whiskey," says Mark Littler, an independent whisky consultant, broker and owner of The Whiskey Wash. "The issue is often context. Many 80-proof releases are made for the broader market, drinkers who are mixing with Coke or just want something easy to sip without much thought. For those chasing flavor and texture, 80 proof can feel thin. Higher proofs offer more texture and intensity, which can help carry complexity."

It turns out whisk(e)y regions and styles outside of the United States are better suited for modest proofs. "Over the past decade, the significant rise in higher-proof American whiskeys has altered the palate and flavor expectations of consumers," says Michael Lowry, global director, spirits sourcing at Total Wine & More. "At the collectable level, Pappy and Buffalo Trace Antique Collection bourbons and ryes have historically been released at high strengths, putting an 'uncut, authentic' halo over whiskey perceived as the highest quality. Single-barrel expressions borrow some of that high-strength luster and offer a new way to experience their favorite whiskey. So many consumers now view 80 proof as 'watered-down' or not flavorful compared to higher-strength options."

So, where to look for 40% ABV whisky outside of America? As Littler suggests, Speyside Scotch offers light, fruity and honeyed profiles that "actually work" quite well at 80 proof. "These aren't big, bold whiskies that need a high ABV to express themselves," he says. Conversely, he notes, peaty Scotches tend to need a higher proof so the smokiness feels more integrated.

Meanwhile, Lowry suggests looking toward Japan. "The Japanese are far more concerned with balance than they are with strength," he says. "They will often bottle a whiskey at a strength that shows off its complexity and nuance the best: That's not always at high proof. Their favorite cocktail is also a whiskey highball, which is meant to be easy-drinking and refreshing, not a blow-you-away flavor bomb." (As you'll see below, Irish whiskey is another region where a good 80 proof isn't a challenge.)

Looking over my whisk(e)y coverage from the past six years, I noticed a paucity of 80-proof recommendations. But that didn't stop me (with help from the experts above) from compiling a list of a few standout, 40% ABV expressions. And, to answer an earlier question, Basil Hayden is on the list. (And no offense to Wild Turkey, Four Roses, Crown Royal and Jameson -- repped here but not the core release -- for your solid, everyday 80-proof bottles. It's just that I prefer your higher-proof stuff so much more.)