Much of what we know about these 250-million-year-old peaks is thanks to a pioneering Scotswoman. Aberdeenshire-born Dame Maria Matilda Gordon left her mark on the Dolomites in the early 20th century. At a time when few women were seen in the field of geology, she trekked the massifs, studying their folds and strata.
Her research proved how immense tectonic forces had thrust and twisted the limestone mountains - findings that advanced Alpine geology and later shaped plate tectonic theory. One of the first women to gain a geology doctorate, Gordon became a global authority on the Alps as well as the Dolomites and a trailblazing role model for women in science.
The beauty of the Dolomites (Image: Peter Samson)
I was reminded of her on a late-August geology trail at the spectacular Passo Gardena. Our guide, Rossana, handed me a hammer and urged me to split open a rock. With one sharp crack, it revealed a fossilised coral several hundred million years old. Over a three-hour long stroll, Rossana vividly traced the story of oceans, coral beds, and seabeds rising to form today's cliffs and valleys. The Dolomites, she confirmed, had been sculpted both for wonder and for adventure.
The world's eyes will soon return to the region, with Cortina d'Ampezzo hosting ski events during the 2026 Winter Olympics. But beyond the global spotlight, Alta Badia and its environs offer a living story of culture and tradition.
The Ladin heritage, with its 2,000-year-old language (a derivation of spoken Latin) and customs, still thrives here. Ladin is taught in local schools and around 30,000 use the language across several valleys.
Traditional dishes such as tutres -- crispy fried pastry pockets filled with savoury fillings like spinach, sauerkraut or ricotta and sweet ones packed with home-made jams or poppy seeds - offer a delicious taste of that very heritage. Apart from Ladin influences, the food on offer was varied, beautifully prepared, catering for all tastes and dietary requirements with many of the ingredients produced locally. Thanks to that richness of local produce, one healthy salad bar offered a tomato selection so multi-coloured it looked like a rainbow in a bowl. Oh, and the gelato shops we visited throughout our trip offered multi-flavoured taste sensations by the cone. All helped fuel the tanks for the higher hikes!
Peter lets the chairlift take the strain (Image: Peter Samson)
In Corvara, Colfosco and La Villa we found onion-domed chapels, flower-decked chalets and a rhythm of life rooted in the land. Having walked in the Austrian Alps and Canada's Rockies, I can say the Dolomites truly stand apart.
Before reaching Alta Badia, we paused in the postcard-perfect village of Fiè allo Sciliar near the Alpe di Siusi, staying at the very pretty Romantik Hotel Turm part of the Belvita Collection of Wellness Hotels. Partly housed in a medieval tower once used as a court and prison, it feels like an art gallery, its walls lined with the family's own collection -- including Picassos. From its doorstep we wandered through vineyards, orchards and the clear waters of Lago di Fiè.
Corvara, our next stop, is often called the jewel of the valley and is seen as Alta Badia's capital, set beneath the dramatic Sassongher peak. We stayed at the elegant Hotel Sassongher, a grande dame example of the Alpine chalet style, first opened in 1933, offering sweeping views and a warm welcome.
Higher still lies Colfosco, perched on the edge of the Sella massif, where trails lead straight into the rugged Puez-Odle Nature Park. Armed with a chairlift pass we drifted up into the peaks for wonderful wanders, rewarded with 360-degree panoramas.
Alta Badia offers more than 400 kilometres of trails linking meadows, forests, summits and villages. Some are very gentle rambles through cow-grazed pastures and flower-strewn slopes. Others, like the climb up Para dai Giai, which I tackled with guidance from expert local guide Giorgio, demand more stamina but reward with sweeping views from the 2,530-metre peak. We did gain a lot of the height via a chairlift, but it was still a good five hour walk up and down.
Peaks touch the sky (Image: Peter Samson)
Indeed, for those less experienced, the amazing network of cable cars and chairlifts whisk visitors high into the mountains, where family-friendly paths meander past lakes and larch woods. The beauty is that you can walk as much -- or as little -- as you wish. The vistas stretch for miles across valleys and peaks. The overall effect is pure visual wellness.
And with mountain huts (some closer in standard to Michelin-starred restaurants) serving strudels, drinks and hearty lunches, every hike invites an indulgent pause.
My favourite stop was the village of La Villa, between Corvara and Badia, often called the cultural soul of Alta Badia. In winter it's a ski hub -- its Gran Risa slopes host world championships -- but in summer the region overflows with possibility: walking, climbing, cycling or simply admiring the views.
We stayed at La Villa's welcoming Hotel La Majun, a stylish family-run retreat blending Alpine tradition with contemporary design. Natalie Mallauner whose grandmother opened the hotel in the 1950s summed up the area's appeal: "You can do everything, or you can do nothing. I often take a chairlift up, find a shaded spot and just read or take in the amazing views. What's not to enjoy?"
Travel in the Dolomites certainly leaves its mark -- on the eye, the spirit, and even on science. Dame Maria Gordon revealed their geological secrets, showing how much, we gain by looking closely. Her legacy endures in every fold of rock, and in the sense of awe travellers carry home. Mine was certainly at a peak - if you'll excuse the pun.
TRAVEL NOTES
Peter Samson flew with British Airways from London to Verona, then drove north to the Dolomites. Alternatively, Sky Alps offers seasonal flights from London-Bolzano, the "doorway" to the Dolomites www.skyalps.com/en. He stayed at three hotels in the region which were The Romantik Hotel Turm - doubles from €356 B&B or €452 half board with drinks www.belvita.it/romantik-hotel-turm Hotel Sassongher - Comfort Rooms with half board for two from €250 per night www.sassongher.it Hotel La Majun - summer B&B rates from €290 for two sharing a standard room www.lamajun.it/en For more info' on the region visit: www.altabadia.org