Check out the bullshit-free cheffery at the Reader''s ongoing pop-up series at Frank and Mary's Tavern.

I know. There are a thousand places you'd rather exist than in this corrupted reality, where armies of malignant goons strive to force-feed you gobs of steaming ordure at every instant.

Here are nine of mine: Ireland, Brazil, Serbia, Sicily, northern Spain, Mexico, Puerto Rico, Nigeria.

It's my favorite night of the week, from the moment Tony welcomes you in, to the first beer Phil slides across the bar, to the bewitching food flying out of Mary's kitchen, to the ever-swelling party of pals, laughing away all the stupid lies.

I've already hyped the return of northwest Indiana craft butchery the Wurst, with smashburger legend Miner-Dunn, manifesting an Irish chip shop this Monday on Saint Patrick's Day.

Sicily's fertile spirals extend from the head of Medusa on April 7 with the Foodball premiere of the Focaccia Mama; while you'd best show up early for Gilda, Jeremy Leven's Basque tavern returns on April 14, each bracketing the one-year anniversary of Foodball at Frank and Mary's.

May 19 has been blocked out for months for the pop-up preview of Links Taproom's return from the dead (yes, there will be Buried Alive fries); while on May 26, it's a special West African Memorial Day afternoon BBQ with old friend of Foodball Dozzy's Grill.